If Italy were a special once-in-a-lifetime trip, perhaps you’d like to hang out with the rich and famous, gazing out upon the emerald waters of Portofino’s moon-shaped port, where the yachts are tethered, as you sip your Franciacorta without regard for the bill. Go for it; you only live once, they say.
Just as a bonus, a castle sits atop the hill overlooking the village. It’s called Castello Brown. It has a garden and great views, as you’d expect. Romantic if you’ve stayed overnight and got going before heat and the tourist hordes arrived.
For a time, the medieval castle became the residence of Yeats Brown, British consul to Genoa, in 1870. Inside you’ll find furnishings and pictures belonging to the Browns as well as photos of many famous visitors to Portofino.
And you trek up the hill won’t be just that slice of castle life. While you’re up there you can visit San Giorgio Church, rebuilt after the last war. Another scenic pathway takes you clear out to the lighthouse, the Italians call it faro, on Punta del Capo.
So where is this romantic Portofino?
Portofino sits pretty on the gulf of Tigullio east of Genoa in the Province of Genoa. Santa Margherita Ligure and Camogli, seaside towns also worth visiting, are the nearest towns. Camogli is a lovely fishing village with pastel houses and a pebbly beach while Santa Margherita is a larger resort town.
How to Get to Portofino
Frequent ferries go to Portofino from Santa Margherita Ligure, Rapallo, and Camogli. You can also go by boat from Genoa or other riviera towns to the south. The closest train stations are Santa Margherita Ligure and Camogli. A bus leaves for Portofino just outside the Santa Margherita station. Portofino is car-free but you can drive the narrow, windy road close to the village where there is a small parking lot. In summer, it’s usually very crowded, and driving and parking can be difficult. Come early.
Lodging in Portofino
Just keep saying to yourself, “It’s a splurge, but we can do this!”
Here’s a map with current prices. Enter your dates to get an idea of prices when you plan to visit. Zoom out to see other, nearby cities, trails, and attractions.
Weather and Historic Climate of Portofino
How will it be when you go? There are hints and charts you can read as well as the current weather:
The Portofino Marine Protected Area
Most of the water along the coast from Santa Margherita around to Camogli is a protected area and it is forbidden to enter the water in some places. There are 20 dive sites and diving can be arranged through local dive agencies. Swimming is allowed only in certain areas and boating is restricted near some of the shoreline. Parts of the coastline are very rugged and steep.
The Abbazia di San Fruttuoso / 11th Century Abbey
On the other side of the peninsula, reached from Portofino by a 2-hour walk or by boat, is the Abbazia di San Fruttuoso. The abbey, built in the 11th century, is set among pine and olive trees. Under the water near San Fruttuoso is a huge bronze statue of Christ, Cristo degli Abissi, protector of sailors and divers. At the end of July, there is an underwater procession to the statue where a laurel crown is placed.
Abbazia di San Fruttuoso Tickets
Portofino may be expensive, but there’s still laundry…
